Hydroquinone is a skin-lightening agent which can come as a cream, emulsion, gel, or lotion. A person can apply these products directly to the skin to treat skin conditions related to hyperpigmentation such as dark spots, melasma, age spots, acne scars etc. But is it really effective? Let’s find out.
What is Hydroquinone?
Hydroquinone is a skin-bleaching agent which decreases the production of melanin by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme needed for melanin production. Hydroquinone has been marketed in skin-lightening products for almost 50 years and remains as the most frequently used whitening constituent in the category. A 2% concentration is available over the counter, whereas 4% hydroquinone concentration requires a prescription.
Hydroquinone for Hyperpigmentation and Dark Spots
Hydroquinone is considered the topical gold standard in dermatology for reducing hyperpigmentation. If you have dark areas on your skin such as dark knuckles, knees, feet or elbows, hydroquinone helps by decreasing the formation of melanin in the skin (the pigment in the skin that gives it a dark color).
Multiple clinical studies have documented the efficacy of hydroquinone in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Combination products containing hydroquinone (typically hydroquinone 4%) also are widely used because hydroquinone monotherapy formulations usually have low efficacy. These combination products frequently include depigmenting agents such as tretinoin, retinol, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, antioxidants (to help stabilize the hydroquinone), or corticosteroids.
How to use: 2% hydroquinone can safely be applied twice daily to affected areas. Sunscreen with a SPF of 30 should be used prophylactically. If you tend to be sensitive, start using it on alternating days, which can help the skin tolerate it better.
Hydroquinone and Tretinoin
Using hydroquinone in combination with tretinoin can help dramatically improve skin complexion. A 2020 study published in American Journal of Clinical Dermatology found that hydroquinone and tretinoin together is the most effective treatment for melasma with no to mild side effects.
How to use: If after 2-3 months no lightening has occurred with hydroquinone alone, tretinoin cream 0.025%-0.1% may be cautiously applied daily in addition to the use of hydroquinone and a broad spectrum sunscreen. In addition, a combination product containing fluocinolone, hydroquinone, and tretinoin is effective.
Your AM skincare routine should look like this: Cleanse → Hydroquinone → Moisturizer → SPF → Make-up
Your PM skincare routine should look like this: Cleanse (let dry at least 5 minutes) → Tretinoin → Hydroquinone → Moisturizer
Hydroquinone, Glycolic Acid and Antioxidants
Both glycolic acid (alpha-hydroxy acid) and hydroquinone are highly effective in reducing melasma. A 2003 study published in International Journal of Dermatology found 75% reduction in melasma after 12-weeks treatment with a cream containing 4% hydroquinone, 10% glycolic acid, and antioxidants (Vitamin C and Vitamin E).
How to use: Apply twice daily on affected areas for 4-12 weeks. Follow up with a moisturizer to buffer skin dryness or irritation. If you have sensitive skin, start slow and use it on alternating days only and then gradually increase usage.
Frequently Asked Questions:
Can hydroquinone be used during pregnancy?
The use of hydroquinone-containing skin lightening preparations during pregnancy is not recommended.
Does hydroquinone permanently lighten the skin?
Hydroquinone is not considered permanent. The skin color can come back after a certain period.
What are the common side effects of hydroquinone?
Skin redness, dryness, burning and stinging.
How long does it take hydroquinone to work?
Hydroquinone’s lightening effects can generally be seen after 4-8 weeks of treatment.
Does hydroquinone darken skin at first?
When used properly, Hydroquinone is very effective in treating skin discolorations, but during the course of treatment you may notice that your skin appears darker.
What can you not mix with hydroquinone?
Do not use benzoyl peroxide, hydrogen peroxide, or other peroxide products when using hydroquinone.
Product Recommendations:
- Admire My Skin Ultra Potent Brightening Serum. Buy It: $29; admiremyskin.com
- Murad Rapid Dark Spot Correcting Serum. $72; sephora.com
- Clinicians Complex 6% Skin Bleaching Cream. Buy It: $49; skinstore.com
- Clarins Bright Plus Advanced Brightening Dark Spot-Targeting Serum. Buy It: $80; ulta.com
PLEASE NOTE
» Before using hydroquinone, do a patch test by applying a small amount of the product to an area of unbroken skin, and check the area within 24 hours for any serious side effects. If the area is itching or red, do not use this product and contact your doctor. If there is just mild redness, then you may start using the product.
» Layering on ample sunscreen and diligently protecting your skin from UV exposure yields the best results with hydroquinone.
» Sunscreen must always be the final step in your daytime skincare routine. Any skin care product you apply over a sunscreen dilutes and reduces its effectiveness.
» A major key to hydroquinone is short-term use. You can slather it on twice daily for at least six weeks (and no more than six months). At the three-month mark, you should set it aside. Once the skin has lightened up, stop using hydroquinone daily and only use it if the hyperpigmentation reappears.
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